I love a Carmel getaway, and every time I take the 2.5-hour trip from San Francisco, I ask myself: Why don’t I do this more often?
Located on the Pacific Ocean in Monterey County, quaint Carmel-by-the-Sea is a popular year-round vacation destination, attracting around 8 million visitors each year, and it’s easy to understand why.
With its thatched-roof cottages, upscale and independent shops, art galleries, abundant fine and casual dining, wine tasting rooms, and natural beauty, Carmel-by-the-Sea lives up to the cliché: there really is something for everyone here.
Another great thing about Carmel-by-the-Sea: it’s just 40 minutes to Big Sur, 10 minutes to the iconic 17-Mile Drive and Pebble Beach Golf Links, 10 minutes to the historic district of Monterey, and less than an hour from local wineries in Santa Lucia Highlands, making it a refined yet relaxed home base to explore more of Monterey County.
Here’s my guide to the best things to do in Carmel-by-the-Sea, from food and lodging to wine tasting, hotels, hiking, and attractions.
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Carmel-by-the-Sea at a Glance
- Vibe: Storybook coastal village, art galleries, upscale and local shops, and refined yet relaxed feel
- Best For: Romantic getaways, hiking & walking, and girls-getaway weekends
- Don’t Miss: Carmel Beach at sunset, Ocean Avenue strolls, Mission Carmel, and 17-Mile Drive
- Eat & Drink: Upscale dining, cozy bistros, bakeries, wine tasting rooms in the village, local tours
- Where to Stay: Boutique inns in town, serene spa and vineyard resorts in nearby Carmel Valley
- Getting Around: Walkable in the village; a car or tour is best for wider exploring.
- Nearby attractions: Point Lobos, Big Sur, Monterey, 17 Mile Drive + Pebble Beach, Mission Carmel
- Good to Know: Dogs are famously welcome, and reservations should be made during peak summer
- Ideal Stay Length: 2–3 nights (longer if pairing with Big Sur and wine country visits)
- Best time to visit: September and October offer the warmest, sunniest, and driest weather. For lower hotel rates and fewer crowds, visit between November and February.
Where to Eat in Carmel-by-the-Sea
Dining in Carmel-by-the-Sea is part of the destination’s allure. Walk around, and the choices are mouthwatering and endless, whether you’re planning a celebratory splurge or just want to grab a coffee and croissant after a long beach walk.
Here are some top places to eat in Carmel-by-the-Sea.
A Carmel mainstay, Grasing’s is a reliable favorite in the village, founded by chef and co-owner Kurt Grasing in the late 1990s. You’ll find the best steaks in town here, a coveted wine list, and pasta and fish dishes. Don’t miss the Monterey Bay Red Abalone, a West Coast treat.
For special occasions, award-winning Aubergine at L’Auberge Carmel, a Relais & Châteaux hotel in the is the Michelin-starred standout. You can expect a seasonally driven prix-fix tasting menu (for roughly $285* per person, exclusive of wine and tip) that showcases Monterey County ingredients, refined French technique, and impeccable service. (*Check prices ahead as they can change)
Sometimes you just want a comforting bowl of pasta after a long hiking day, and Enzo has a hearty selection: lasagne Calabrese, carbonara, and fettuccine alla bolognese are among my faves. At lunch, they serve homemade sandwiches too, and more pasta, because when it’s that good…
When brunch is calling, head to La Bicyclette, where casual France meets coastal California vibes lure locals and visitors alike for the wood-fired pizza, pastas, fish, and amazing desserts that will take you to your favorite Parisian bistro in one mouthful. They also serve breakfast on Fri, Sat, Sunday—but only from 8:30 a.m. to 10:15 a.m. Oh! La! La! So French.
Carmel Bakery can legitimately call itself California’s oldest bakery (founded in 1899), and it is still in its original location on Ocean Avenue. Early birds will be happy to know it opens at 7 a.m. as well. It’s a great place to fuel up on breakfast burritos and breakfast sandwiches, fresh eggs, granola, pastries, and more, including their famous cannoli!
I love Stationæry for the morning coffee and the breakfast-all-day menu. When I want eggs Benedict for lunch, this is the place. Its off-street location makes it feel like a hidden gem, too.
FYI: Stationaery usually closes for a month during winter.
What to Do in Carmel-by-the-Sea
When it comes to things to do in Carmel-by-the-Sea, wine, food, and shopping share top billing.
Carmel-by-the-Sea is highly walkable and concentrated along tree-lined Ocean Avenue. But don’t ignore the surrounding side streets (like Dolores and Mission). Zigzag around and you’ll find a good mix of locally-owned boutiques, art galleries, and hidden courtyards full of gems.
At Carmel Plaza (Ocean Ave & Mission St), you’ll find more than 40 shops, including upscale brands such as Anthropologie, Tiffany & Co., Athleta, and Bottega Veneta.
When I’m in town, I pick up botanical oils and tinctures at Eartha Cura, a modern-day apothecary that seems to fit right into this fairy-tale village. I also love Somewhere for their carefully curated collection of Carmel and California-themed gifts.
Sip and stroll on a Carmel-by-the-Sea Wine Walk, a self-guided tasting experience that uses a mobile phone pass to check in at tasting rooms and restaurants right in the village, making it easy to sip at your own pace.
Take a scenic ride along the world-famous 17-Mile Drive for classic California coastline drama. You’ll wind past iconic stops like the Lone Cypress, Spanish Bay, and the legendary Pebble Beach Golf Links and Lodge. Even non-golfers will appreciate the sweeping ocean views and photo-worthy pullouts.
Don’t want to do it in a car? Try a guided 3-hour e-bike tour of 17-mile drive: same great views, better workout.
If you love the outdoors, plan your travel to Carmel around the stunning coastal trails and beach walks in the area.
Carmel Beach is the town’s gathering spot, with soft white sand, crashing waves, and wide views along the coast and to Pebble Beach. It also has the best sunsets in town. Go for morning walks, or chill out with kids or a good book. Carmel Beach is famously dog-friendly, with off-leash hours that make it a favorite for four-legged travelers.
Just south of town, heading toward Big Sur, Point Lobos State Natural Reserve is a must-visit for nature lovers and walkers. The park is crisscrossed by easy and moderate coastal trails, where wildlife sightings are frequent, including sea lions, otters, pelicans, and migrating whales.
FYI: There are only about 150 (paid) parking spots inside Point Lobos, and soon, a reservations system will be in place. This isn’t usually an issue outside summer, but check with the park if you plan to be there during the high season or on holiday weekends.
For a deeper sense of local and state history, visit Carmel Mission Basilica, officially known as Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo. Founded in 1771, the beautifully restored mission is a peaceful, serene place near the village. This is one of the 21 California missions established by Spanish Franciscans between 1769 and 1823.
If you’d like to dive into the surrounding wine country, Carmel-by-the-Sea sits adjacent to the Santa Lucia Highlands, a small wine-growing appellation that cultivates some of California’s best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. For an easy introduction, book a local winery tour, get picked up at your Carmel hotel, and let someone else do the driving.
Where to Stay in Carmel-by-the-Sea
For those who love to road trip, Carmel-by-the-Sea can be a day trip from San Francisco.
But to fully immerse in the area’s scenic beauty, wine and dining opportunities, and small-town charm, an overnight at one of the many inns, B&Bs, or luxury hotels will only enhance your experience in this beautiful corner of Northern California.
An elegant, full-service Relais & Châteaux property, 20-room L’Auberge Carmel is a few blocks from Carmel Beach, with beautifully appointed rooms and suites, and bespoke service that reflects its historic 1929 roots. L’Auberge is known for its refined yet relaxed atmosphere and its award-winning on-site restaurant, L’Aubergine, making it a favorite for couples and luxury travelers.
Carmel-by-the-Sea’s newest destination for a luxury coastal getaway, the contemporary Stilwell Hotel has 42 guest rooms just steps from Ocean Avenue. You’ll find modern amenities and a relaxed vibe. Best of all, you can explore galleries, restaurants, and the beach on foot.
Bernardus Lodge & Spa is in Carmel Valley, about 10 miles from the village, and is ideal if you want a quiet setting, where wine tasting and pampering take center stage. Here you’ll find yourself surrounded by vineyards, orchards, and rolling hills, with 73 rooms, suites, and villas, and a full-service spa on-site. Read my recent review of Bernardus Lodge.
