Where to Eat in Saint-Tropez: My Favorites After 20+ Years (and counting)

I’ve been eating my way around Saint-Tropez for 20 years, long enough to see restaurants come and go—the good, the bad, the trendy, and the tried-and-true.

That’s Saint-Tropez: it loves to reinvent itself, but it also holds tight to its traditions. Where to dine is no exception.

I return to the same places a lot. They’re like tasty old friends I catch up with year after year. But a few newcomers always pop up, too, and why not give them a try?

This is a guide to where I actually eat. Places that have remained consistent, from casual crêpes on the port to oysters in the sun to over-the-top spectacles and ‘splurgey’ special-occasion restaurants. I love them all for various reasons and moods.

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Ready to eat your way around Saint-Tropez?

Allons-y! Let’s go!

✂️———-

For a Casual & All-Day Brasserie: Le Sporting

An old-school brasserie is always a good idea to have in your back pocket, because no matter the time of day, you can always grab a coffee, beer, or a bite to eat.

Le Sporting, with its prime perch on Place des Lices, is that place for me. Plus, the front-row seat to passing people, fashions, and cars is highly entertaining.

It recently underwent a renovation, and I’ll admit I preferred the old, dark-wood look to the newer, cleaned-up aesthetic. Thankfully, the things that matter haven’t changed.

The food is still solid, the staff is friendly, and the service is ‘nonstop,’ as they say, meaning the kitchen is open from 8 a.m. to around 11 p.m. with no closure between lunch and dinner.

I’m partial to the burger, especially when I’ve had my fill of elaborate French meals and sauces, but you’ll also find good pizzas, salads, fish, meat dishes, and smaller bites.

For a Magical Moroccan Atmosphere: Salama

I have been visiting Salama since it was tucked into a tiny Rue des Tisserands. I was heartbroken when it closed in 2016. Thankfully, it returned with a vengeance in 2019, opening at the former Villa Romana location (if you know, you know).

Taking visitors here is one of my Saint-Tropez rituals. The tagine, couscous, mezes, and pastilla are my go-to orders, but their menu is varied and great for sharing, in a setting lit by lanterns and table lamps.

Salama has two seatings: 8 p.m. and 10:30 p.m. Reservations are essential and, for a long time, had to be made by phone or WhatsApp, though this year it seems they have started offering online reservations with different seating times. During summer, it’s usually just the two seatings.

I prefer the earlier seating. It’s more about the dinner and the atmosphere. The late crowd wants to turn it into a club, with a DJ and dancing on tables, which is totally fine, but that’s not why I come here.

For Seafood With Locals: Chez Madeleine

Simple. Local. And 100% the place to go for casual oysters, seafood platters, and chilled white wine.

This tiny oyster and seafood spot is on the Place aux Herbes, next to the fish market and behind the famous Le Senequier café. It’s wonderfully casual. On a sunny day, with a cold glass of something alongside, I’m perfectly happy right here.

For Drinks & Bar Snacks: Le Sube

I bring many visiting friends here, and they always adore it—as I have for years.

Not pretentious or trying too hard, and set right on the port, the lounge bar at the 3-star Hotel Sube is by far my favorite Saint-Tropez happy hour or nightcap spot.

If you can snag one of the four tables on the balcony, you’ll have a front-row seat; however, Le Sube’s interior is fantastic, too, with its sailing theme, leather banquettes, and dark wood.

With a glass of bubbles and a charcuterie plate (or other bar snacks), there are few places I’d rather be in Saint-Tropez as the sun goes down, or for an after-dinner coupe overlooking the yachts in port.

Entry is through a small gallery next to Café de Paris and up a flight of stairs. Just look for the statue of Bailli de Suffren, a naval admiral with ties to Saint-Tropez.

For a Fresh Juice or Quick Lunch: Ju

Eventually, even I need a break from rosé. Really, it’s true. 😉

JU is my stop for a fresh juice, but it’s more than a juice bar. It’s also a go-to for bagel sandwiches (hello, beach and boat-day snacks) and other light options when you don’t want to commit to a three-hour restaurant meal.

For a Detox Shot, Coffee & Snack: Maison ST

Need a break between boutiques? Maison ST’s Café is an easy stop for fresh juices, smoothies, matcha, detox shots, coffee, and light snacks.

It’s part café, part yoga studio, part shop, and part perfume and candle-making studio, which sounds slightly ridiculous until you remember you’re in Saint-Tropez.

For Fresh Pasta Made by Mama: La Table de Léon

Tucked into the tiny streets of the old town near the Citadelle, La Table de Léon is the family-run Table de Léon.

The outdoor dining space is sweet and sits on a pretty Saint-Tropez pedestrian street. But the real reason to go is the house-made pasta the owner’s mother makes every day. How cute is that?!

You can choose your favorite—tagliatelle, fusilli, rigatoni, or gnocchi—then pair it with the sauce that sounds best that day, including truffle, carbonara, roasted vegetables, pesto, porcini mushrooms, and even an octopus Bolognese.

For an Upscale Lunch in an Old-School Setting : La Ponche

La Ponche belongs to an older Saint-Tropez, when the fishing quarter of the same name attracted artists, actors, and writers rather than superyachts and influencers.

The restaurant is part of Hotel La Ponche, a historic 5-star boutique hotel located in the heart of the old fishing village of Saint-Tropez. Its outdoor terrace sits in an enviable spot near the water and is a popular choice for an upscale Sunday lunch, but they also serve breakfast and dinner. The hotel bar is worth checking out too.

I usually order the fish that day, served with fresh Provençal veggies. On a hot day, it’s the perfect meal.

For a French Food Palate Cleanser: Banh-Hoï

When another plate of grilled Mediterranean fish simply isn’t calling your name, the dinner-only Banh-Hoï is a welcome change. I love the setting down a narrow street with tables set out under string lights.

This is a longtime Saint-Tropez favorite (opened in 1976), and I’ve been visiting for more than 20 years. It serves pan-Asian dishes, mixing Vietnamese, Thai, sushi rolls, Japanese dishes, curries, and so many spices and flavors my palate craves after several months in France.

There are also many vegetarian options. Trust me, you’ll find something to love.

👉 Travel tip: The restaurant’s interior is air-conditioned. As much as I love the street scene, the summer heat can be oppressive, even when the sun goes down.

For Casual & Quick: Crêperie Bretonne

Not every meal in Saint-Tropez needs to be an event.

Crêperie Bretonne is an easy counterpoint to all the fancy, showy, splashy ‘scenes’ Saint Tropez is known for, and is located on the port, not far from the Bateaux-Verts shuttle boats.

The menu is all about the savory buckwheat galettes and sweet crêpes and works particularly well for an inexpensive lunch or casual dinner.

The Galette Complète has ham, egg, cheese— super simple and good! But there are other combos too—salmon, roquefort cheese, ratatouille.

For A Family Dinner: Les Moulins de Ramatuelle

A quick uber ride from the port, Les Moulins de Ramatuelle is set in an old farmhouse on the Route des Plages. I like it because you can easily bring kids and still catch a fun Saint-Tropez/ South of France vibe.

Arrive early for an apero and a game of pétanque on the restaurant’s courts, then settle in for dinner beneath the pine trees.

The menu leans Provencal: the beef cheek daube over gnocchi (swoon) and the chicken paillard are my regulars. Last time I was there, it was too hot to eat anything heavy, so I had the burrata with fresh veggies and the tuna tartare, which were excellent and fresh.

You’ll also find fresh fish, pasta, meat dishes, and my other favorite –the petits farci. These stuffed vegetables are found throughout the region and are a must-try food when dining on the French Riviera.

For a Stylish Escape Near Town: Beefbar

Yes, Beefbar Saint-Tropez is part of a global chain known for its namesake meat, but you don’t have to be a steak lover to enjoy it.

For me, much of the draw is the setting at Hôtel Lou Pinet, just outside the village and an easy Uber ride away. You’ll sit outside under umbrellas and trees, and the setting is pretty casual, despite this being Saint-Tropez.

The menu is a carnivore’s dream with Japanese wagyu, chateaubriand for two, dry-aged beef, and even a burger. But it’s also surprisingly varied, with salads, lobster tacos, Korean BBQ, lemon chicken, sea bass, and a kids’ menu.

But wait…

The Beefy Cordon Bleu is UNBELIEVABLE. Veal, beef ribeye, ham, and melted cheese with black truffle cream and a Japanese panko crust it is so decadent and good, you will think about it long after you leave. I know I do.

It’s also huge and shareable.

For an Over-the-Top Dinner on the Port: L’Opéra

Subtlety is not on the menu at L’Opéra, where dinner comes with a spectacle that lands somewhere between Cirque du Soleil and the Moulin Rouge.

The setting is gorgeous, overlooking the port, with bold photographic art by Philippe Shangti.

You should be prepared for performers in seductive attire singing and dancing up on and around the tables. FYI—there’s a good chance you’ll be encouraged to get up and dance yourself.

It’s loud, theatrical, and unapologetically over-the-top Saint-Tropez

The dinner menu is huge, with a mix of fish dishes, pasta, seafood, steaks, ceviche, and caviar— the list goes on. But really, don’t expect to leave here discussing the food.

It’s not why people come here.

(photos by Kristen Vukovic)

For The Michelin-Star Splurge: La Vague d’Or

Arnaud Donckele’s three-Michelin-star restaurant at Cheval Blanc Saint-Tropez is for those who consider restaurants to be the destination.

The hotel and restaurant are only open May -October so check and book way ahead. It also only has about 40 seats inside a dining room with floor to ceiling windows and a sea facing terrace facing the Gulf of Saint-Tropez.

Full disclosure: I have never dined here. It’s about €500 per person before wine, and that is just a little out of my writerly snack bracket.

But I have toured the hotel and know people who have raved about the dinner, service, and setting.

If Michelin-star chasing is on your bucket list, this place is for you.

After 20 years of eating my way around the French Riviera and Saint-Tropez, I’ve learned not to get too attached and to stay loyal to the places that served up a good meal and some fun.

Restaurants change, and chefs move on, but every new visit and experience also brings a chance to celebrate just being there.

See you at Le Sube for sunset!

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